THE FOLLOWING WAS LAST UPDATED ON DEC. 2, 2010.
We installed our honey bees four days ago on July 18th, 2010. We picked up our nuc boxes from the a Newfoundland Bee Company on the west coast of Newfoundland the day before at $200 a pop. (Check out my Honey Bees Are On The Way post for a definition of a nuc box and an explanation of the installation process.) I installed the first box of bees and Jenny video taped it. Jenny installed the second box of bees later and I took pictures. I can’t upload the video due to some technical difficulties which I’m working to fix. Until then, here are some of the pictures:
This is the first hive after we installed the bees.
The emptied nuc box on the ground still had a few bees in it that eventually flew back into the hive.
The upside-down Mason jar is full of a honey-sugar mixture. (Nov. 15/10 update: Don’t use honey unless it’s from your own bees. Grocery store honey often contains spores for various Foul Brood diseases which you definitely do not want in your hives.) The bees will feed on it for a couple weeks while they get oriented to their new surroundings. It also helps them build comb quicker. (Dec. 02/10 update: The bees are actually fed all summer long.)
And here’s Jenny a few hours later opening the second nuc box.
We smoked the bees a bit, but our smoker technique needs some work.
These bees were more agitated than the others, buzzing louder and flying around more, but most of them were docile and didn’t pay much attention to us.
And here’s a closer shot of the just-opened nuc box full of bees. I’m guessing that’s about 10,000 bees.
Jenny pulls out a frame full of bees.
We can’t tell the difference between a frame full of brood, honey or pollen yet. We didn’t look too closely to find out. We just wanted to get the bees in as quickly as we could. We knew it was best to place a frame full of brood and a frame of honey close to the middle of the new hive, leaving an empty frame between each of the newly-installed frames because the bees are more compelled to fill in empty spaces than to work outwards. We took a guess at which frames were full of brood and honey.
Frame of brood in the middle, then an empty frame, then this frame of honey and so on.
UPDATE (Feb. 17/11): I probably wouldn’t split the brood up like this again. Drone brood can go on the sides, but regular worker brood should stay together.
Jenny pulls out another heavy frame:
It’s not heavy because it only has the beginning of some drawn comb on one side.
Now it’s my turn to dump the stragglers into the hive. That’s right, I tipped the box on its side, banged the box so the bees fell down to one side, then tipped it upside down and banged it again and the clump of bees fell into the hive. They didn’t seem to mind.
It doesn’t look like much, but the bees don’t care, and having the glass top (with cardboard on top to block out the light) means we can look through the glass and watch the bees do their thing without bothering them.
UPDATE (Dec. 02/10): I was just reading over this post again and I noticed Hive #2 initially didn’t have an inner cover. That means it didn’t have an upper entrance, no place for heat to escape, no ventilation.
I wonder if that had something to do with that hive being slower to start up. The bees probably cooked for the first week until the inner cover arrived.