10 responses

  1. Jeff
    September 30, 2010

    1) Check for eggs or queen queen cells within a week

    2) if you have frames towards the end that are not drawn out move a frame that is drawn out (assuming no brood on it) to the outside. That helps to encourage them to build wax on the empty frame.

    3) While doing that give a few squirts of sugar syrup for encouragement.

    Are they filling up the drone comb with any syrup or honey?

  2. Phillip
    September 30, 2010

    The bees in Hive #2 have chewed out all the drone larvae and filled the cells with honey. I assume the same thing is happening in Hive #1, though I haven’t inspected it for awhile.

    At the moment, though, the bees are starting forage again, starting to act like normal bees again. The sun is shining directly on the hive. So maybe it’s nothing.

    I’m meeting up with the A-man at 3 o’clock. I’ll see what he says. In regards to Hive #1, my questions for him will be, what’s going on? Should I add a honey super? Or what?

  3. Jeff
    September 30, 2010

    wish I was there to pick his brain too. My bees are getting really aggressive.

    Ask him about over wintering and also if he ever performs any splits and what he does.

    Does he use any additional pollen substitute in early spring for build up. Just what he.

    Also mention hello and thanks again to him.

    • Phillip
      September 30, 2010

      Too late. I just got back from seeing him. I know what to do about wintering my bees now and feeding them.

      The strange behaviour with Hive #1 could be two things (though I forgot to mention the fighting behaviour):

      1) The queen is honey bound, in which case I should remove at least two frames of honey from the brood box and replace them with empty frames as soon as possible. The queen will be laying for most of October and will need the room for brood. Apparently, I could have put a honey super when there were 2 or 3 empty frames left in the second brood box. So I could have had a honey harvest this year. (And I still might.)

      2) The hive is queenless. In which case, there’s much I can do except combine the queenless hive with the good hive to create one really strong hive for the winter, which might be strong enough to split in the spring and still get a honey harvest from. (I hope that isn’t the case.)

      I’ll post all the details over the next few days.

  4. jeff
    September 30, 2010

    Remermber I mentioned about this clear plastic shelter. Well today there must have been 2 hundred bees inside, several flying, most stationary. Basically they looked exausted. So I collected most of them and placed them on plastic tray with some sugar syrup. Most started feeding away on it and back in no time they were starting to fly away and head back to the hive. When I went back tonight only 3 or 4 were left on the tray.

    Looks like I saved most of them

    • Phillip
      September 30, 2010

      Wow. That’s crazy.

  5. jeff
    September 30, 2010

    They are really aggressive though. Even though I went up and looked at them today they were flying into me. I’m really not certain what to think of it.

    • Phillip
      September 30, 2010

      Mine are getting nastier too. I might take out a full frame of honey tomorrow. Might they’ll shut them up.

  6. jeff
    October 1, 2010

    These are the plans I am looking at for stanard supers.

    http://stonehavenlife.com/honey-supers-and-hive-bodies-woodworking-plans/

  7. Phillip
    October 1, 2010

    I think we have a queenless hive. This is what we found during the inspection:

    - Lots of honey.
    - Plenty of empty cells, the equivalent of at least 5 empty frames.
    - Some capped brood but not much.
    - No 3 or 4 day old larvae. No little grubs in any of the cells.

    I guess it’s too late to order a replacement queen.

    Looks like we’ll be combining our hives for the winter.

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